Copenhagen Travel Guide: How to Understand the City in Ten Days

We spent 10 days in Copenhagen over Christmas trying to do three things at once: explore a new city, work, and film two videos. It was ambitious. Some of it was genuinely magical—the lights of Copenhagen Christmas markets, the cold air off the Nyhavn harbor, the way the city looks like it's designed by people who think about aesthetics even in their infrastructure. But it was also exhausting.

Still, we managed to complete all of those tasks, and here we are—sharing this travel guide to Copenhagen. It covers things to do in Copenhagen Denmark, the neighborhoods worth knowing about, how to navigate the city, and what to expect from your first visit.

Key takeaways:

• Area: 86.4 km² (33 sq mi), though Greater Copenhagen extends much further
• Population: about 805,000 in the city proper, 1.3 million in the metro area
• Currency: Danish krone (DKK)
• Language: English is widely spoken; Danish is notoriously difficult for outsiders
• Best time to visit: May to September or Christmas time
• Primary transport: bikes and S-trains
• Cost: one of Europe's most expensive capitals

We filmed our trip to Copenhagen, covering everything from why Denmark ended up this way (spoiler: history, taxes, and design philosophy) to how the city actually functions for people who live there to things to see and do in Copenhagen​. 

Copenhagen location and neighborhoods

Copenhagen sits in the eastern part of Denmark, on the island of Zealand, near the entrance to the Øresund strait separating Denmark from Sweden. The city is situated 435 km (270 miles) north of Germany, 700 km (435 miles) southwest of Stockholm, and about 1,000 km (620 miles) east of London.

Two bridges connect Copenhagen to Sweden: the Øresund Bridge (a combined road and rail crossing that's become iconic) and the Drogden Bridge. For visitors, this mainly matters if you're planning a side trip to Malmö, which is a 35-minute train ride and costs about 145 DKK (€19) return.

Main Copenhagen neighborhoods worth knowing: 

• Nørrebro is where you'll find young people, artists, and remote workers—cafés, vintage shops, and genuine energy. 
• Nordhavn (directly east) is newer and glossier: converted warehouses and the waterfront development that looks like Copenhagen's future.
• Indre By (the old center) includes Strøget, the famous pedestrian shopping street, and quieter side streets with actual character. 
• Nyhavn is the postcard canal—beautiful, crowded, worth 30 minutes before you leave.
• Vesterbro is grittier and cheaper, with street food and diverse restaurants. 
• Frederiksberg is where Copenhagen's well-off live—leafy, quiet, and genuinely Danish in a way tourists rarely see.
• Osterport (Østerbro) is where Copenhagen's residential reality shows—small shops, quiet streets, no performance for visitors. It's north of Nyhavn, genuinely worth walking through if you want to see how Danes actually live.
• Christianshavn (near Lille Langebro bridge) feels removed from the main city and rewards wandering. Walk here for sunset views without crowds.

Housing in Copenhagen: hotels vs Airbnb

We rented a cozy Airbnb on Borups Allé in the Nørrebro neighborhood, with solid WiFi to support our workation. It was charming—exposed brick, hygge details, and all that Copenhagen aesthetic you see in design magazines. It also had a toilet with a shower mounted directly above it, which is apparently a completely normal way to save space in Danish apartments.

If you're looking for something more conventional, Copenhagen has plenty of hotels ranging from budget chains (around 600-900 DKK / €80-120 per night) to luxury options, and the hotel infrastructure is solid. For budget stays, expect the same shower/toiler situation as was in our Airbnb.

For longer stays (a month or more), Airbnb works but gets expensive. Local housing sites like findroommate.dk or boligportal.dk are where Danes actually rent, though they're primarily in Danish and assume you know how the rental market works.

How to get around: bikes, trains, and why you don't need a car

Copenhagen's transport system is built around two things: the S-train network that connects the city and suburbs, and bikes. Thousands of bikes. Everywhere.

The bike culture here is not aspirational—it's practical. We rented a used Christiania bike (a large cargo bike with a wooden box up front) for 1,200 DKK (€160) per month, which is cheaper than a gym membership and infinitely more useful. You'll see families of four on a single bike, delivery people hauling packages three times their body weight, and office workers in suits pedaling through rain without breaking a sweat.

If you don't want to commit to a bike, the things to do in Copenhagen are accessible by train and bus.

A 24-hour ticket costs 80 DKK (€11), or you can buy a 10-ride card (120 DKK / €16) if you're only here for a few days. The system is clean, on time, and covers everything you need to see.

15 top things to do in Copenhagen

The best things to do in Copenhagen span from palace spires to hot-dog stands, from tourist spots to hyper-local areas, and from old churches to modern architectural marvels. Here's where the city's real range comes through.

1. Christiansborg Palace 

Christiansborg Palace is the seat of the Danish Parliament, but it is also open for tours of the royal reception rooms. The interiors are opulent in a way that feels very Danish—ornate but not ostentatious. The kitchen is modern because it's actually used. Tickets are 125 DKK (€17) for adults, and it's worth the time if you're interested in how Denmark's government actually works.

2. Amalienborg Palace

Amalienborg Palace is the winter residence of the Danish Royal Family, arranged around an octagonal courtyard. The neoclassical buildings are beautiful, and you can watch the changing of the guard at noon. The museum inside covers royal history from Christian VII onward.

Copenhagen has other royal palaces: Rosenborg Castle (former royal residence, now a museum with crown jewels), Fredensborg Palace (north of Copenhagen, the spring/autumn residence), and Kronborg Castle in nearby Helsingør (Hamlet's castle). We didn't have time to visit them during our trip, but they're worth the day trip if royal history interests you and your schedule allows.

3. Nyhavn canal district

Nyhavn (literally "New Harbor") was built in 1670 as a working port where ships unloaded cargo directly into the city. For 300 years, it was exactly that — rough, functional, filled with sailors and merchants. The colorful buildings you see now date from the 17th and 18th centuries, but they weren't always tourist attractions. They were cheap housing for dock workers, built narrow and tall because waterfront land was expensive and space was tight.

The neighborhood fell into decay by the mid-20th century until Copenhagen decided to restore it. They kept the buildings, added restaurants, and gradually transformed a working harbor into a tourist attraction. The boats are still there, but they're mostly tour boats now.

4. Rundetårn (the Round Tower)

Climb the Round Tower if you want a view of Copenhagen's red-tiled rooftops and the city's scale. The spiral ramp inside is unusual—it was designed this way so that carts could haul books up to the library that used to occupy the top. The view from the top takes 15 minutes to reach and is genuinely useful for understanding Copenhagen's layout. On clear days, you can see across the Øresund into Sweden.

Tickets are 60 DKK (€8), and it's free for children under 18.

5. Lille Langebro bridge and the waterfront

The small bridge connecting Christianshavn to the main island is one of our favorite spots for sunset. It's not famous, which means you'll actually have space to stand. From here, you can see back toward Nyhavn and across to Trekroner Fort in the harbor. The area around Christianshavn is worth wandering—narrow streets, old buildings, and the distinct feeling of being slightly removed from the main city.

6. Freetown Christiania

This one requires context. In 1971, a group of squatters took over an abandoned military barracks on the city's eastern edge and declared it an independent commune. Over 50 years, Christiania has become a semi-official alternative community with its own rules, its own economy (mostly legal, some not), and genuine cultural significance.

It's also deeply polarizing. Some Copenhageners see it as a cultural treasure and counterweight to the city's cleanliness. Others see it as lawless and believe it should have been shut down decades ago. The truth is somewhere in the middle—it's a functioning community with real people, but also a neighborhood with drug dealing and potential risk of getting in trouble after dark.

Visit during the day. Walk the main streets, eat at one of the communal restaurants, and understand this as part of Copenhagen's history. Don't treat it as a quaint tourist attraction; leave before 8 p.m.

7. Vor Frelsers Kirke (Church of Our Saviour)

The Church of Our Saviour is most famous for its external spiral winding staircase that can be climbed to the top, offering extensive views over central Copenhagen. We climbed it on a windy day — the staircase is exposed, metal, and the tower was noticeably swaying. A little alarming, but the views were worth the mild terror.

Tower admission: 70 DKK (€9) for adults, 20 DKK (€3) for children under 15. Free for Copenhagen Card holders. The climb takes 15-20 minutes. The church sits in Christianshavn, walkable from Lille Langebro bridge.

8. Marmorkirken (the Marble Church)

This church sits across from Amalienborg and has a massive copper dome that dominates the skyline. The neoclassical interior is surprisingly understated after the exterior promises. The real reason to visit is to go inside and stand under that dome—it's one of Copenhagen's best "wait, that dome is HUGE" moments. It's free to enter. Donation appreciated.

9. Kastellet: the star fortress

A five-pointed military fortress from 1662, still functioning as a military installation but open to the public. The grassy ramparts are perfect for picnics, and the views back toward the city are excellent. There are no crowds here, which is remarkable considering how close it is to the city center. Free to visit. The moat is real, the military presence is real, but tourists are welcome.

10. The Little Mermaid statue

It's small. Much smaller than people expect. Sitting on her rock in Langelinie Park, she's barely taller than a person. The statue has been vandalized, relocated, and beheaded multiple times over the decades—it's become a running joke in Copenhagen that she can't catch a break.

Go see her, but manage your expectations. Take the photo. Then walk to the nearby Langelinie Fortress or just sit in the park. That's the real draw—the waterfront, the space, the relative quiet.

11. Street art and BLOX

Copenhagen has become a serious street art city. Neighborhoods like Nørrebro and Vesterbro are covered in murals that range from political statements to pure aesthetics. There's no formal tour, but walking with no real destination is how you actually find it.

BLOX is the new Royal Danish Library building, completed in 2018. It's architecturally striking (white marble facade, impossible angles), and the public spaces inside are genuinely welcoming—the reading rooms are free to use, and there's a café.

12. CopenHill

Copenhagen's waste-to-energy plant was converted into CopenHill—a facility you can actually visit that includes a ski slope on the roof, a climbing wall, and public spaces. It sounds absurd (because it is), but it's actually a clever piece of urban design that turns infrastructure into recreation.

Day passes for the climbing wall are around 100 DKK (€13). The ski slope is seasonal and requires a bit more commitment. It's worth visiting at least to understand how Copenhagen approaches public space.

13. Det Kgl. Bibliotek (The Royal Library)

The "Black Diamond" is one of Copenhagen's architectural landmarks—a dark glass building that juts into the harbor. The reading rooms are open to the public (bring your passport), and the building itself is worth experiencing just for the interior light and space. There's a café and a gift shop if you want to stay longer.

If you have a research interest, you can access some collections. For tourists, just walking through is enough.

14. Det Kongelige Teater (the Royal Theatre)

If you want to experience Copenhagen's cultural side, the Royal Theatre stages opera, ballet, and drama.

Tickets vary widely depending on the performance, but you can often find spots in the upper balcony for 150-300 DKK (€20-40). Even if you don't catch a show, the building itself is worth seeing — it's on Kongens Nytorv in the heart of the old city, and the architecture is distinctly Danish.

15. LEGO House Copenhagen

If you're nostalgic for LEGO or traveling with children, the LEGO House is a temple to the toy's history. It's in Billund (about 260 km / 160 miles west of Copenhagen), so it requires a day trip.

If you're short on time, simply visit one of LEGO shops located in the city.

Where to look for budget lunch in Copenhagen

Denmark is expensive. However, you can still find budget lunch options in the city if you know where to look.

Smørrebrød

This is an open-faced rye sandwich. A proper one costs 60-90 DKK (€8-12) and feeds you in 20 minutes. Herring, roast beef, shrimp, egg, and caviar piled on quality rye with butter and fresh herbs. It's quick, affordable, and how Danes actually eat when they're working.

Hotdogs

Hotdogs from pølse stands are priced at 40-50 DKK (€5-7) — soft white bread, crisp onions, pickles, mustard. Practical food which is also tasty. And remember: Danes don’t add cheese to their hotdogs. If you spot it, your hotdog is probably not authentic.

Wienerbrød

Danish pastries (wienerbrød) arrived from Vienna in the 19th century and became so embedded in Danish culture that other countries ended up naming them after Denmark. A real one from a bakery costs 35-50 DKK (€5-7), butter-heavy and flaky. Add a coffee (50-65 DKK / €7-8), and you have a perfect stopover on a cold winter afternoon.

What to know before you visit

We’d like to share a few things with first-time Copenhagen visitors.

The weather

Copenhagen doesn't have dramatic seasons. Winter (November-March) is grey, damp, and around 0-5°C (32-41°F). It's not dramatically cold, but it's persistently uncomfortable. Summer (June-August) is around 17-22°C (63-72°F), which sounds mild until you realize that "mild" in Copenhagen means "perfect"—the city becomes genuinely pleasant.

May to September is the reliable window. Go then if you can. If you can't, understand that Copenhagen winter is more about accepting greyness than experiencing actual winter.

The Danish concept of hygge

You've probably heard this word—it's supposed to mean coziness or warmth. The reality is more complex. Hygge is real, but it's also commodified and exported. The hygge you'll experience as a visitor is often the expensive version—candlelit restaurants, design-focused hotels, carefully curated spaces.

The actual Danish version is more about being with people you like, in spaces that feel intentional. It's more a feeling of warmth and safety than a specific thing. It also includes using technology mindfully, treating digital devices as helpful tools rather than sources of stress.

Danish directness

Danes are famously direct in communication. This isn't rudeness—it's efficiency. Small talk is minimal. If you ask for something and the answer is no, Danes will say no without the softening language you might expect elsewhere. This takes adjustment if you're coming from a culture that values excessive politeness. 

Visa considerations for nomads and remote workers

It would not be complete to provide a travel guide to Copenhagen without noting that Denmark is a member of the Schengen region. Americans and citizens from other European countries receive a visa-free stay of up to 90 days. Should you plan to stay for longer as a remote worker, you will have to obtain either a work visa or a residency permit under one of the special programs offered in Denmark.

Top 10 things to do in Copenhagen Denmark to understand the city

Danish capital is built for people who live there. The things to do in Copenhagen that matter most are the ones that let you understand how and why Danes designed their city this way. 

Here are the things to do in Denmark Copenhagen to understand the city​:

1. Bike everywhere: practicality and equality over status. This isn't tourism; this is how the city actually functions.
2. Walk Strøget on a side street instead: car-free public space designed for people, not cars. This is the choice Danes made.
3. Sit at Lille Langebro at sunset: simple, functional design. No show, just a bridge that works and a view that follows.
4. Climb Rundetårn: 17th-century innovation: a spiral ramp so carts could haul books upstairs. Danes solve problems with design.
5. Spend an afternoon in Christiania: the alternative experiment. Danes tolerate radical difference because they believe in personal freedom.
6. Walk through Kastellet: a 350-year-old fortress still standing because it was well-designed. Durability matters here.
7. Visit Marmorkirken: massive dome, restrained interior. Ornamentation exists, but it serves a purpose, not vanity.
8. Wander Nørrebro or Vesterbro: residential neighborhoods where actual people live. This is how Danes design for living, not for selling.
9. Sit in a public library or BLOX: free, beautiful public space. Investment in shared resources over private comfort.
10. Take the S-train system: efficient, clean, designed to work for everyone. Transportation as philosophy.

The best things to do in Copenhagen aren't always the top attractions. The real city shows itself when you're not looking for it. It teaches you how a place can be both beautiful and functional, both designed and lived-in, both famous and indifferent to fame. That's what makes Copenhagen unique, and that's what quality time reveals.