Madeira Travel Guide:​ 10 Days That Didn't Go as Expected

We spent 10 days on Madeira. It rained 9 of them. 

We missed the sunrise. We missed the sunset. We got soaked on the highest peak on the island, couldn't see a single thing, and hiked back down in silence. And still we want to come back.

This isn't a guide to the best beaches or top restaurants in Madeira. It's the real story of 10 days on an island that completely surprised us: the challenges, the discoveries, and a raw look at a place that gets under your skin even when it's doing its worst.

How to get to Madeira

Madeira Island​ is an autonomous region of Portugal, sitting in the Atlantic Ocean about 800 kilometers west of the Moroccan coast and around 1,000 kilometers southwest of Lisbon. 

So, how to get to Madeira from Lisbon​? Take a plane, as ferries no longer exist between mainland Portugal and Madeira. The flight takes about 1.5 to 2 hours and runs multiple times a day. As you come in to land, you start seeing the coastline rising straight out of the Atlantic.

The runway at Cristiano Ronaldo Madeira International Airport is genuinely one of the most unusual in the world. It's a massive concrete bridge propped up by 180 pillars built over the ocean, because there simply wasn't enough flat land to build it any other way. Only specially trained pilots are certified to land here because of the Atlantic crosswinds.

10 days in Madeira

Hiking trails in Madeira: Levadas vs Veredas

On an almost vertical island, hiking is the only way to truly explore. Madeira has over 2,500 kilometers of trails, divided into two main types that offer completely different experiences.

Veredas are the classic mountain paths — exposed, dramatic routes along high ridges and volcanic peaks. The famous PR1 connecting the island's highest points is one of these. Spectacular in good weather. Dangerous in a storm.

Levadas are unique irrigation channels dating back to the 15th century, built to carry water from the rainy north to the dry south. Walking alongside them takes you through deep, emerald-green valleys and straight through the island's interior. They're the quieter, more contemplative option.

As of 2026, many of the most popular PR trails (including PR1, PR6, and PR8) require an access fee of €4.50. You need to access the government's SIMplifica portal to book your trail and pay for it.

10 days in Madeira: a full travel guide

We covered the island from northwest to southeast, from the coastline to the mountain peaks. Most of the time we were soaking in the rain, but still had that adventurous spirit. 

Day 1: Arrival

Landing at Madeira Airport is widely considered one of the most challenging approaches in the world. Severe crosswinds, mountain turbulence, and a pretty short runway mean that flights sometimes get canceled and landings can be nerve-wracking. Still, our flight was smooth, and we landed safely.

First order of business: picking up the rental car. We had booked it before arriving, and if you're planning more than a beach holiday in Madeira, we'd recommend doing the same. Availability fills up fast, and having a car from day one gives you the freedom to go wherever you want.

With the car sorted, we drove north to the house we'd rented for the trip, somewhere in the Santa Maria Madalena. One stop on the way was for Madeira wine. The island has been producing it for centuries, and picking up a bottle is the right introduction.

By evening we were home, rested, and preparing for the upcoming adventures. The weather looked uncertain.

Day 2: Levada do Moinho and Ponta do Sol

We didn't come to Madeira to sit inside, and decided to start our day with a hike.

Hiking Levada do Moinho-Levada Nova

The Levada do Moinho to Levada Nova is a circular trail near Ponta do Sol Madeira that combines two levadas into a single route of about 9 kilometers.

It starts in the small village of Lombada, at the church parking area. The trail is mostly flat, with only a couple of short, steep sections, making it accessible to most fitness levels. But don't underestimate it. Some paths are narrow with serious drop-offs and no safety railings, so focus matters.

About halfway through, the trail delivers its main highlight: the Levada Nova waterfall, where the path is carved directly into the cliff face, letting you walk behind the falling water.

Right after the waterfall comes a 200-meter rock tunnel. Bring a headlamp or a strong phone light. The ceiling is low in places, the ground stays wet, and without light you're not getting through. And actually, this is part of the charm.

Ponta do Sol

After the hike, we drove to Ponta do Sol — the sunniest municipality on the island. The old stone bridge in the town center is one of the most recognizable spots here, built from volcanic stone and once part of the town's connection to the sea. People come to walk along it, watch the waves crash below, and catch the sunset. 

That day, we were lucky to see the sun, but we couldn’t have imagined it would be our only.

Day 3: Fanal, Ribeira da Janela, Seixal, and São Vicente

This day was rainy and stormy, but still we managed to visit a few breathtaking places.

Fanal forest

Fanal is part of Madeira's Laurisilva forest — a UNESCO-protected woodland of mystically twisted, moss-covered trees that look like they belong in a fairy tale. The constant mist gets trapped by the branches, turns into droplets, and slowly falls to the ground. Even when it's not raining, the forest is still collecting moisture from the air. That's one of the reasons everything here looks so green. The trees act as natural water collectors, feeding the soil, the streams, and eventually the levadas across the island.

And there's a very logical explanation for the whole climate picture. Madeira sits right in the path of the northeast trade winds, which push moisture in from the Atlantic. When that wet air hits the island's mountains, it rises, cools, and drops its rain, mostly on the north side. The south gets the sunshine.

Praia da Ribeira da Janela 

Ribeira da Janela is a small beach on the north coast near Porto Moniz. Although only about 15 meters long, the ocean views are completely out of proportion to its size.

Just offshore stand three volcanic islets about 200 meters from the coast. The largest rises 40 meters out of the Atlantic, roughly the height of a 13-story building, and at its peak there is a small natural hole that looks like a window. That window is exactly where the name comes from: janela means window in Portuguese

Seixal

A few kilometers further, the village of Seixal gave us something we weren't expecting. Praia do Seixal is one of the island's few natural black-sand beaches, with green mountains rising directly behind it and waterfalls cascading down the cliffs into the ocean. The area gets more rain than the south, which is why everything here looks extra lush.

The beach has good access and proper amenities, such as a bar on the cliff and kayak rentals. One of the most photogenic spots on the island, and noticeably quieter than anything near Funchal.

São Vicente

We finished the day in São Vicente, one of the oldest settlements on Madeira, dating back to the 15th century when the island was first being colonized. It's best known for its volcanic caves (lava tubes formed around 890,000 years ago) where you can walk inside and see how Madeira was built from the inside out.

The town itself feels quiet and local, with a small church at its center and views of the valley opening straight to the ocean. We tried nêspera and local apple bananas there, both worth seeking out if you spot them at a market or roadside stall.

Day 4: Porto Moniz, Boa Morte, and Ponta do Pargo

Remote work travels with us, so day three meant a shorter range. We headed to the nearest city, Porto Moniz, and also explored a couple of science locations in the north.

Porto Moniz and Farol do Ilhéu Mole

Madeira Porto Moniz is best known for its volcanic pools, formed by lava flows that cooled into basins now filled with crystal-clear seawater. On a sunny day, the contrast between black volcanic rock and bright blue ocean looks almost unreal. On our day, it looked moody and dramatic in a different way.

Unlike the steep cliffs that dominate most of Madeira's coastline, Porto Moniz has a more open feel, which is why it became a natural gathering point for locals and travelers alike. It's also one of the few places on the island where you can safely swim in the ocean without fighting strong currents, thanks to those natural pools.

Just off the coast, the small lighthouse Farol do Ilhéu Mole stands on a lonely rock in the ocean. The lighthouse sits at a focal height of 65 meters and has a range of 10 nautical miles. Definitely worth a photo.

Miradouro da Boa Morte

From Porto Moniz we drove south toward one of the west coast's quieter viewpoints. Miradouro da Boa Morte translates literally to "viewpoint of good death" — the name refers to the small chapel at the start of the trail, dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Boa Morte, reflecting devotion to a peaceful passing into eternal life.

The viewpoint offers remarkable views over the west coast of Madeira, where the vibrant green of the hillside meets the infinite blue of the ocean. A short five-minute descent from the road leads to a well-constructed terrace with sturdy railings, benches, and ample parking nearby. Still largely off the tourist radar, which means you'll likely have it to yourself.

Farol da Ponta do Pargo

A few kilometers further sits Farol da Ponta do Pargo, the lighthouse at the westernmost point of Madeira. Built in 1922, its tower stands 14 meters high with the light positioned at 312 meters above sea level, making it one of the highest lighthouses in Portugal. 

We were hoping for a sunset. We arrived, spent some time watching the horizon, and waited. The clouds never moved. But at least we met a friendly cat.

Day 5: Cascata dos Anjos

That morning the sun actually came out. It didn't last; rain moved in before long, but it was enough to get us moving.

Madeira is home to dozens of dramatic waterfalls. Some you'll never reach as they are too high and too remote. But many are accessible via hiking trails, and Cascata dos Anjos (Angels Waterfall) near Ponta do Sol is one of the most unusual.

It cascades directly onto the old coastal road ER101, right beside the ocean. According to local legend, angels used to descend from the heavens and bathe in the waterfall, which is how it got its name. The road section beneath the falls is now closed to vehicles, so you park nearby and walk the last stretch on foot.

Along the way, we saw locals stopping beside small levada waterfalls to collect water straight from the flow in plastic containers. That's because these channels are functional infrastructure, and not just scenic trails.

Day 6: Staying home and tasting pastry

The hail that day was intense enough to settle the question quickly. We weren't going anywhere.

We had planned to ride the Teleférico das Achadas da Cruz, one of the steepest cable cars in Europe, descending 450 meters down a near-vertical cliff face near Porto Moniz to a remote agricultural valley by the ocean. It was closed.

Instead, we drove to Rodripan, a small family bakery tucked into the village of Santa Maria Madalena. It's the kind of place you'd miss completely without GPS, hidden in a residential area, marked by a weathered sign, operating out of what appears to be someone's house. 

The pasteis de nata, bolo do arroz, and pineapple puff pastries are made fresh and cost almost nothing. We brought the buns home, waited out the storm, and called it a day well spent.

Day 7: Santana, São Lourenço, and Machico

The next day was rich for locations. Although it seemed the weather tried to get rid of us every now and then.

Santana Madeira Houses

Santana was calm when we arrived, which felt like a small miracle at that point in the trip.

The town is best known for its distinctive triangular thatched houses, some of the most recognizable symbols of Madeiran heritage. They date back to the island's earliest settlement and were built from two cheap, abundant materials: straw from local cereal plantations, used to cover the roof, and wood, used for the frame and walls to help regulate interior temperature. The steep slope of the roof was deliberate, as it drained rainwater efficiently and kept the structure watertight.

Inside, the layout was simple. The ground floor is divided into two parts: a kitchen and bedroom, and an attic above used for storing agricultural produce.

Aguage Waterfall

Just outside Santana, the Aguage Waterfall is worth visiting alongside the village trip. It is less of a hike and more of a short walk to a viewpoint, around 20 to 30 minutes out and back. The waterfall itself is tucked away and easy to miss if you are not looking for it. A good low-effort stop before moving on.

Ponta de São Lourenço

Ponta de São Lourenço is a volcanic peninsula stretching nine kilometers into the Atlantic, offering panoramic views over both the island's north and south coastlines. It is classified as a Partial Nature Reserve, home to rare plants and protected seabirds. The PR8 trail covers the peninsula in a six-kilometer round trip and is one of the best hikes on the island on a clear day.

We did not get a clear day. An orange weather warning came in while we were exploring the area, and the storm caught us before we could get back to the car. So, we headed toward Machico.

Machico Beach

Machico is one of the most historically significant towns on the island. It was on Machico beach that, in 1419, Portuguese navigators João Gonçalves Zarco and Tristão Vaz Teixeira first set ashore when they discovered the island of Madeira. That makes it the birthplace of Madeira's entire human settlement. By 1440, the village had already become the first Captaincy of Madeira and an important center for sugar production.

Cristo Rei de Garajau

On the way back from Machico, we stopped at Garajau, a small coastal village just east of Funchal. The Cristo Rei statue stands on a cliff there, facing the ocean with open arms. It's easy to spot from the road but worth the short detour down to the clifftop.

The wind when we arrived was relentless, the kind that makes you lean into it just to stay upright. The wooden fence along the path was broken in places, likely ripped apart by the wind at some point. We went down anyway, took in the views of the coastline from the viewpoint just below the statue, and made it back up without incident.

Day 8: Funchal

We surely couldn’t miss the most important city of Madeira and spent all day in Funchal.

Pico dos Barcelos

We started the day at Pico dos Barcelos, one of Funchal's best viewpoints. From up there you get a wide panorama over the city's red rooftops spreading down toward the harbor, with the Atlantic beyond. A good way to see the real size of Funchal.

Colorful Doors of Rua de Santa Maria

Down in the old town, Rua de Santa Maria is one of the oldest streets in Funchal, dating back to the 15th century. In 2011, artist José Zyberchema launched the Painted Doors Project to regenerate the then-neglected Zona Velha neighborhood. Today there are around 200 painted doors, turning the street into an open-air gallery with no rules about subject or style, which means the variety is remarkable.

Monte Palace Tropical Garden

Monte Palace is one of the best-designed gardens on the island. Terraces drop down the hillside with koi ponds, azulejo tile panels, and tropical plants from across the world. We spent time watching the flamingos, which turned out to be one of the more peaceful moments of the whole trip. It was raining even then, so we walked through the whole thing in our raincoats.

Mercado dos Lavradores

The covered market in Funchal is worth visiting for the atmosphere and the produce. The stalls are colorful, but a word of warning before you reach for your wallet.

The "local" label here applies mostly to the location. Many of the fruits sold are imported, and locals don't actually shop there. Prices are high, and merchants will offer free tastings — the final price for what you buy can be a genuine surprise. 

One seller even became openly hostile when we filmed inside, despite there being no restrictions on filming. If you want to try fresh fruit without the tourist markup, a regular supermarket is a much better option.

Bolo do Caco

Before leaving Funchal, we tried bolo do caco, Madeira's traditional flatbread served with garlic butter inside. One of the best things we ate on the entire trip (and in life!). We found it at a local café and took it with us to a viewpoint to spice up our dinner with views of the Atlantic. Highly recommend the approach.

Day 9: Levada do Alecrim, Bica da Cana, and Pico do Arieiro

Day eight gave us one of the best hikes of the trip – together with rain, of course.

Levada do Alecrim

PR6.2 Levada do Alecrim is part of the Rabaçal nature reserve, sitting on the Paul da Serra plateau inside the Madeira Nature Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The trail runs at an altitude of 1,300 meters and covers 7 kilometers out and back, ending at a natural spring at Ribeira do Lajeado.

At the waterfall, a chaffinch landed on my palm and helped itself to a cheese and chicken sandwich. Just a bird with good taste.

Bica da Cana

We also checked out Bica da Cana, one of the island's highest accessible peaks at 1,580 meters. Ten minutes' walk from the road, a short hike to the viewpoint, and panoramic views across the magical valleys of the island. A genuine alternative to Pico Ruivo or Arieiro for those who want the views without the crowds or the effort. Some say it's better.

Pico do Arieiro

Pico do Arieiro is the third-highest peak on Madeira, standing at 1,818 meters, behind Pico Ruivo and Pico das Torres. Unlike most peaks on the island, it is accessible by road directly from Funchal, which makes it one of the most popular spots for watching the sunrise or sunset above the clouds.

We were already planning to chase the sunset from there that evening. We arrived. Everything was covered in fog, and the route to Pico Ruivo was closed. We couldn't even see our car five meters away. Yet we didn't give up. We were already planning day nine.

Day 10: Pico Ruivo and Sunset

Having completely lost hope of clear weather, we decided to hike Pico Ruivo no matter what.

Pico Ruivo is the highest peak on Madeira Island and the third-highest in Portugal, standing at 1,861 meters in the municipality of Santana. On days with clear visibility, it offers panoramic views of the entire island. 

The wind was relentless, the fog was total, and the trail was wet and slippery the entire way up and back. We saw very little from the top. But we went anyway because at that point, with nine days of rain behind us, the summit felt like the only thing left to do.

What we can tell you from experience: proper hiking shoes and a waterproof jacket are not optional. Don't attempt the hike without both.

On the way back, we stopped in a small coastal town for a walk beside the ocean. The waves were strong, the light was grey, and we were quietly making peace with the idea that Madeira had beaten us on the sunset.

Then beams of light began to break through. We got back in the car and drove. We spent the last hour of the day calculating cloud cover, wind direction, and which spot had the best chance of a clear western view. The decision was made: we were heading to Farol da Ponta do Pargo

It worked! After 10 days of rain, fog, and missed attempts, we watched the sun drop into the Atlantic from the cliff at the lighthouse. It lasted maybe 15 minutes and was unforgettable.

What We Learned About Madeira

The weather kept showing us who the boss was. It rained almost all the time, and the sun was so rare that we genuinely lost hope of seeing a single sunset. 

But Madeira gives you things even in the rain: ancient forests that seem to exist in another time, levada paths that feel like following the island's veins, volcanic coastlines that look different in every light, and a quietness on the north coast that's hard to find anywhere else in Europe.

If you're planning your Madeira trip, pack a raincoat and warm layers — you'll need them regardless of the season. And if you're coming in low season, build flexibility into your itinerary. The island will almost surely change your plans.

We can't say this trip was easygoing. But we'd love to come back and explore it once again. And if you wonder how we survived this rainy Madeira adventure, watch the full video on YouTube.